A little anomaly of laid back style in the midst of Islington, Frederick’s has been serving unpretentious French cuisine to a devoted faithful for around forty years.

The Venue
Just off Upper Street, among the antique shops and boutiques of Camden Passage, the little ornate front of Frederick’s, styled in the image of a jolly Parisian brasserie, invites you in and expands unexpectedly from an art deco salon, opening upwards, downwards and on both sides into a vast bricked conservatory overlooking a quaint little garden. Big abstract canvases dominate the walls and betray an eccentricity of taste and a certain hard-won individuality.

The Atmosphere
The sophisticated atmosphere of Frederick’s sets it apart from most other restaurants around. Spotlights fall from the high glass ceiling and each little table feels quite special starring in its own little island of light. The staff are friendly, theatrically courteous at times, and knowledgeable and professional. Norah Jones, Diana Krall, Chet Baker and the like are piped wistfully through the dining room. Most of the clientele seem to be couples on dates, topping up the smoochy Parisian feel.

The Food
The bread is excellent, dense and crusty, and silver-served, so be sure you know how many slices to ask for. These decisions are seldom easy. The menu offers seasonal French fare, with the odd Asian or Italian influence. There’s nothing too daring, and everything looks appealing. The main courses are mostly French fish or meat and two veg, sensibly cooked and elegantly presented. The fillet of beef is a well seasoned, well balanced, well executed bowlful of polished unpretentious cookery. It shows what Frederick’s is capable of, and at just over £20, you would expect nothing less.

Other dishes may let you down in frustrating ways: the rump of lamb is nicely garnished but a little dry; the scallops (as a starter), fresh, succulent and mollycoddled with the delicacy they deserve in the pan, come with a lentil salad that’s overdressed and tastes of ketchup. The foie gras and chicken liver pate is simple and nicely prepared, but why the compromise? There is no contrast, only competition, and it’s a one horse race. The cheese plate comes with more quince paste, chutney and celery than it does cheese, not to mention biscuits, but the cheese, when you get to it, is not bad at all. Starters average at around £10, mains around £18, desserts around £6.

The Drink
Fredericks does a good range of well selected wines, one half French (including a selection of vintage clarets), the second half from the rest of the world. Prices start at £22 and go well into three figures. Champagne, a lot of which seems to get drunk here, is well represented.

The Last Word
Forgive it its faults, Fredericks will charm you with its style and passionately good intentions: Parisian in every way.

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